The CEO position in a worldwide watch model is usually an ambassadorial one too, particularly when collectors and retail companions are at all times searching for a bit of your time. Very often, these people complain when the highest government goes too lengthy with out visiting worldwide markets. On this notice, it has been far too lengthy since we reconnected with Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué, so when the native public relations arm of the model requested if we wished a few of Pontroué’s time, we jumped on the likelihood. After all, WOW goes a great distance again with each Panerai and Pontroué.

Within the modern period of this journal, Panerai had the Summer season challenge cowl from 2013 all the way in which to 2017. That is becoming as a result of the Paneristi – the gathering clique most obsessive about the model – are significantly sturdy in Singapore; in 2020 and 2021, amidst the turmoil of COVID-19, we realized that the Panerai boutique in ION Orchard had grow to be the best-performing boutique for the model on the planet (by the model’s personal off-the-record estimation). Given the dimensions of Singapore, this was wonderful to be taught…little question you, expensive reader, are one in all these hardcore elites since you have got made it this far into the story. We most likely made some hay out of this truth in the previous few years, and it gave us additional impetus to reconnect with the Swiss-Italian watchmaker.

Not for nothing, the opposite purpose we relished the chance to satisfy Pontroué in Singapore was that the editors of this journal have recognized him since his days at Montblanc, which he joined on the flip of the millennium. I personally recall him main the press presentation on the model in the course of the Salon Worldwide de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in 2008, most likely. Pontroué was more than likely Product Technique and Growth Government Vice President at the moment. No matter his title, he was positively a key particular person in product technique and growth, having minimize his tooth constructing the leather-based items enterprise for Givenchy, an LVMH firm. A lot of the present era of editors and writers most likely received to know Pontroué significantly better in his years as CEO of Roger Dubuis, the place he developed the thought of HyperHorology, which as we speak defines that model. He joined the model in 2011 and rapidly grew to become CEO, which was his position there for six years.

At Panerai, Pontroué succeeded the legendary Angelo Bonati, a person synonymous with the model’s modern standing. Thus, he had some fairly large sneakers to fill, whereas taking the model into uncharted territory and shaping his personal legacy. To his credit score, Pontroué envisioned a future for Panerai that was distinctly Italian, whereas increasing its core providing past the dive and navy heritage of the model. A key instance of latest challenges for Panerai will be seen in its concentrate on materials innovation, being within the vanguard of manufacturers striving to make use of extra recycled metal and titanium. He additionally introduced the thought of tying particular watches with particular experiences, which he pioneered at Roger Dubuis, to Panerai. We talk about this, and Panerai’s extra elegant flip with the Luminor Due with Pontroué on this prolonged dialog.

We didn’t get an opportunity to talk about Watches and Wonders Geneva so let’s start there.

You understand Watches and Wonders Geneva is among the solely probabilities now we have to current ourselves (and what we do) to the world. It’s the equal of couture week (within the varied style capitals) besides that now we have just one present. Now that we’re 60 manufacturers (displaying at Watches and Wonders Geneva this yr), the competitors is getting tougher and tougher so now we have to do lots to impress the general public, the journalists, the sellers… the complete watch neighborhood. Because of this for me it’s a inventive train…earlier than it was extra a promoting train however now that we’re increasingly promoting out of our personal boutiques and retail companions, the Watches and Wonders Geneva present is about making an impression. It’s about speaking. The main goal of (a significant worldwide watch honest) is capturing consideration, create buzz, generate social media visitors… we’re not solely right here to promote watches. Possibly 10 years in the past, watches have been the primary attraction…home windows at exhibitor’s cubicles filled with watches. Now, watches are nonetheless necessary however the present is extra about storytelling. That’s the rationale to return to the honest, particularly for the general public.

I used to be very impressed by public attendance over the weekend as a result of we had 3,800 individuals in two days. Some simply need to see the sales space however we had near 1,000 individuals who wished to check the watches. So they’d sit down like we’re right here, with one in all our representatives, to strive, to check, to take photos… So it was a really spectacular publicity now we have received on the weekend, which was new for us.

So totally different from the general public days of the SIHH then?

We had them then? You could have a greater reminiscence than me. It was not very spectacular as a result of I don’t maintain any recollections of it! This yr, it was very effectively organized; we had individuals queuing as much as enter our sales space as a result of we had, for safety causes, capability for under 100 individuals who might be inside (at anybody time). So Watches and Wonders Geneva has been a really fruitful train for us when it comes to model staging and visitors publicity to a whole lot of new communities.

For instance, I found now we have a Paneristi neighborhood in Liechtenstein (one of many smallest and richest international locations on the planet – Ed). Have you learnt the place Liechtenstein is? At Watches and Wonders, I met the chief of the Paneristi in Liechtenstein, and I didn’t know we even had a neighborhood there! So, watch gala’s are the events to satisfy individuals you wouldn’t have met in any other case, and I at all times have been an enormous fan. Having one event a yr the place Geneva is the centre level of all of the watch trade makes a whole lot of sense, proper? It’s good for Switzerland, good for Geneva, and good for our trade.

And but you’ll proceed to point out new watches all year long, as you’re doing now in Singapore with the Brabus PAM01283…

For us, Watches and Wonders is a platform the place we don’t present every thing. We’ve got events to stage new merchandise all yr lengthy. After Singapore, I shall be in New York for the massive boutique opening there and now we have one version just for New York, which we don’t present right here. The identical shall be true of Watches and Wonders Shanghai (which may have wrapped by the point you learn this – Ed).

Coming again to the Paneristi, and fan communities on the whole, how do you have interaction with them provided that they aren’t a creation of the model?

It’s a excellent query. The Paneristi neighborhood was not created by Panerai, sure. It grew to become a motion that began within the US three years after the model itself restarted (circa 2000). So even as we speak, the boss of the Paneristi on the planet is a man I do know very effectively, primarily based in Chicago. I’ve a whole lot of contact with the Paneristi in all of the international locations I go to the place I attempt to meet with them. Not on a regular basis. I at all times say that the Paneristi (or a neighborhood like them) is the most important advertising division a watch model can dream about having proper? As a result of now we have 30,000 members who know Panerai higher than any of us on the model.

They’re very loyal to the model; very supportive, and lively in defending the model, and bringing in new members… Typically I meet members who’re very younger individuals, not the standard guys who’re my age, however the brand new era, you already know, and that is what I like very a lot. As a result of the son of the Panerista (the informally accepted singular for Paneristi – Ed) can be now a Panerista. In Singapore, we met some younger guys, who got here (to a meet-and-greet with the model) and possibly they stole some watches from their fathers (to put on that night)!

We had, at one in all our Panerai Experiences with (adventurer and conservationist) Mike Horn, a child who was 12. So, the daddy couldn’t come (and thus loaned) his Mike Horn watch (we presume this to be the Submersible Ecopangaea Tourbillon GMT Mike Horn PAM01108, however there are a selection of Mike Horn editions – Ed) to his son, who got here to have the Expertise. So, the help we get from the Paneristi is totally natural (and occasions such because the Panerai Experiences will not be Paneristi occasions, as such). The Paneristi are simply right here within the background to help us but when they don’t like what we do, they are saying it additionally! You understand that they are often very vocal after they don’t like what we do.

And so the best way to clarify that? It’s cultural… ardour just isn’t one thing you’ll be able to clarify. It’s like love. So, I feel it’s the similar dynamic on the subject of the love for a model. You could have a whole lot of good causes on the subject of Panerai: the historical past, our Italian id, the truth that we’re so spectacular. It creates a belonging spirit, which may be very distinctive to our model. There are manufacturers within the watch trade a lot larger than us, despite the fact that we’re a part of the highest 15 manufacturers. Nonetheless, the sense of loyalty of the individuals who like Panerai is among the highest within the watch trade.

Why do you assume that is?

We’ve got by no means studied rationally (about) the why. Possibly it’s as a result of we’re not an enormous model, though we’re not small… Possibly it’s as a result of now we have a sure proximity with lots of our clients, although not all of them. There may be this heat (in our relationship with our clients) which isn’t standardized (or generic); you have got nonetheless the impression to be a part of a household. And we do occasions with them…

So, we do 400 buyer occasions per yr in our firm, worldwide. I don’t know the way many individuals we see at every one, possibly 100. In order that’s 40,000 a yr, in a really intimate method…(reminiscent of on the Singapore Panerai buyer occasion the place) I feel I shook fingers with kind of everybody who attended, and it was the identical in Bangkok (the place I used to be earlier than coming to Singapore).

This love for Panerai additionally extends to a few of your extra well-known associates…

You understand this film known as “Operation Fortune”? Effectively the star of that present, Jason Statham, who’s an enormous fan of Panerai, got here to our boutique in London two years in the past, purchased 4 watches and instructed the workers there that he wants these watches for his subsequent film. We had no thought it was Operation Fortune, and also you see the watches within the film offered very properly. We by no means did something, we by no means paid Jason Statham…I used to be not even in a position to thank him. We don’t even have his e-mail handle due to course he doesn’t give his e-mail handle when he’s at our boutiques. Even by his agent, it is rather sophisticated nevertheless it tells you one thing {that a} man like that, who represents very a lot what Panerai stands for – very athletic, very sporty – placing his personal watches into his motion pictures. That is what I name the tender energy of the model.

Mr Statham is a longtime Panerai collector! However what about one thing new that maybe you have got by no means seen earlier than? 

The phenomena which is new for me is extra in direction of women watches and women shopping for our watches…that is new clientele now we have. We didn’t have so many merchandise earlier than that have been appropriate (measurement smart) however now now we have the 38mm assortment, just like the Luminor Due for instance. We even have small problems just like the moon section. We’ve got the straps from Prada, now we have some new pastel dial colors. For the primary time, within the boutique in New York, now we have a devoted space for girls.

This text was first printed on WOW Autumn Challenge #70

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